Wednesday, 31 July 2013

EAT: Trattoria degli Amici, Rome

Piazza di Santa Maria, Trastevere

Location: Trastevere, Rome
No of Tables: circa 30
Cuisine: Italian
Price: Dishes from £12
Date Visited: June 2012


Firstly, although this should be common knowledge to anyone travelling to Rome, Trastevere is the place to eat. Escape the main city as soon as you can, take a short trip across the river and discover this veritable maze of delicious Italian restaurants. 

We fell upon Trattoria degli Amici by chance during an evening of wandering through Trastevere's streets. We only stopped on the small Piazza di Santa Maria to admire the old church that takes pride of place. By total chance, we then decided to check out the menu of the restaurant on the edge of the square. It wasn't until we returned to eat at degli Amici that evening that we realised there was more to this eatery than originally met the eye. The restaurant is partnered with charity Comunita Sant' Egidio, an organisation dedicated to helping handicapped people find work. 

All of the staff, from the chefs through to the waiters, have some form of mental or physical handicap. The restaurant is a non - profit business that solely exists to teach its staff valuable skills and give them the confidence that comes with employment and serving the public. 

This great cause alone would be reason enough to visit degli Amici. Happily, though, the food is also of a high standard. We both had a basic tomato pasta dish to start, which was, typical of Italian cuisine, confoundedly tasty for something that only uses about three ingredients. I then followed this with the Swordfish and fennel. The house wine went down well, and was plentiful for the price we paid. The service, although not of the speed that you can expect in the restaurants in the tourist quarter, was friendly and attentive. I personally don't mind taking a meal at leisure whilst on holiday, but the restaurant has received some negative reviews on TripAdvisor as a consequence of the service. Perhaps the critics didn't understand the premise of the restaurant, but either way my advice would be to ignore the lot of them.

The food at Trattoria degli Amici holds its own against any other restaurant we tried in Trastevere and is significantly better than any of the tourist traps in the city. Add to this the brilliant cause that the restaurant serves, and there really is no excuse not to while away a Roman evening here.

Find out more information here: www.tratorriadegliamici.org

Sunday, 21 July 2013

STAY: Hostel Riad Marrakech Rouge

Central Lounge, Hostel Riad Marrakech Rouge

Location: Marrakech, Morocco
No of Rooms: 5 private rooms, 8 dormitories

Board Basis: Bed and Breakfast
Price: From £8 per person, per night
Date Visited: May 2013

So this is a real budget option! As much as I love hostels, quite often they are either extremely basic (read uncomfortable), or are overpriced for what they offer and lack any charm.
 Hostel Riad Marrakech Rouge, has just the right balance of comfort and originality. Yes, it is far from luxurious, but for £8 per night, you don't expect it to be. What it does deliver on is hospitality, value for money and peace in a busy city.

I was fairly sceptical about my stay in Marrakech, not least because I had relinquished my usual control freak tendencies and let my friend book where we were staying. On top of this I had heard that I would need to worry about my safety, the food, the haggling, the noise; the list was endless. However, I would urge anyone to try this city out for themselves, and stay at Riad Marrakech Rouge when they do. Malek, the hostel owner, was unbelievably helpful, offering up tips and advice on where to visit and eat, and making sure that we lacked for nothing. On top of the generous free breakfast (we never managed to finish it all), the hostel offers free mint tea and biscuits throughout the day, perfect for when you pop back to relax in the central lounge.

The central lounge itself is the primary reason for staying here. It is decorated with memorabilia from all over the world, has comfortable recliners, relaxing music playing throughout the day and is the perfect forum to meet new and interesting people on their travels. It summed up everything that I love about backpacking. 

Throw in comfortable beds, a roof terrace and a central location, and you have yourself the perfect stay for a budget trip to this bustling city.

Find out more and book online here: www.riadmarrakechrouge.hostel.com.


STAY: Mango Bay Resort, Fiji

Mango Bay Resort, Fiji

Location: Sigatoka, Fiji
Accommodation type: 16 bed dorms, 10 bed dorms, private huts
Board Basis: Bed and Breakfast
Price: Dorms from £13 per night, private huts from £50 per night
Date Visited: August 2012

Mango Bay Resort is situated in the Sigatoka area of Fiji, a short drive from the capital, Nadi. I would say that it offers 'flashpacker' level accommodation, with well kept dorms, but basic private rooms. The facilities are not luxurious; the pool is small and the decor is more or less non existent.

But, despair not! The negative set up is only to manage expectations. This is an accommodation option for backpackers, not one for those who are expecting luxury. As backpacker accommodation goes though, Mango Bay is up there with the best. The dorms are kept clean and comfortable, and even in high season are not constantly full, meaning that in our  five day stay we could spread out and make ourselves at home. The communal washing facilities are equally well looked after.

It is in a beautiful location, right on the beach, with no other hotels in sight. A walk along the bay in one direction takes you into secluded coves, and in the other to a long stretch of sandy beach. The sunsets are out of this world, and can be enjoyed each evening from the beach front restaurant.

The restaurant is exceptional. For a modest price, you receive huge helpings, and we steadily worked our way through the menu while we were there (putting on any weight that was lost during our stint in Asia). Every morning we would see that staff pulling in with the catch of the day, later to land on our plates either in traditional fish and chips format, or dressed up in curries and salads. A favourite was wahoo. I would also recommend the pineapple fritters, which I developed a particular weakness for.

Unfortunately our time in Fiji was marred by unprecedented bad weather, despite visiting during the dry season. The staff at Mango Bay, however, were totally geared up for this eventuality. There was a full program of events throughout the day, including frog racing, pineapple smashing and canoeing. In case you wondered what pineapple smashing is, see my attempt below (hint, the pineapple is about six feet to my right):


All in all, Mango Bay is a great stop off is you are backpacking and want something a little more comfortable, or if you are looking for a cost effective way to balance out the expense of your flights to the other side of the world. If we could have a great time despite the atrocious weather, I hold high hopes for any visitor.

Find out more and book here: www.mangobayresortfiji.com




 


Tuesday, 16 July 2013

EAT: Trattoria 4 Leoni, Florence

4 Leoni, Piazza della Passera, Florence


Location: Florence, Italy
No of Tables: Circa 30
Cuisine: Italian (Tuscan)
Price: Dishes from £14
Date Visited: June 2012


On our trip to Italy, we found two restaurants, one in Florence and one in Rome, that despite ourselves we returned to. Ordinarily, we would want to try as many different places to eat as possible on a city break, but we felt that we had stumbled across a charm when we ate in Trattoria 4 Leoni.

We had been warned in advance that it was extremely popular with the locals, so our hotel manager made a reservation for us. The restaurant took us a little while to find, as it is hidden in a small square, the Piazza della Passera; this means that it is away from the hoards of tourists that flock the restaurants near the Duomo and the Ponte Vecchio. Due to the Florentine heat, we opted to eat inside the restaurant, but 4 Leoni does have a beautiful terrace area also.

The menu is in Italian and the staff speak little English. This seems to have shocked the tourists on Trip Advisor; they are in uproar that they were unable to dissect the menu or get their waiter to describe every ingredient that goes into the food. To the contrary, I take comfort in menus catering to the locals when I travel, as it reassures me that the food must be good to have local endorsement. This is particularly true in Italy, with the fierce pride that Italians take in their cooking.

On our first visit, we chose one safe option from the menu (gnocchi and antipasto), and one wildcard dish that we couldn't translate. It turns out that I had ordered veal, whilst my boyfriend had gone for a beef Tuscan stew. Both were delicious. Being far from a wine afficionado, I quaffed a good half a bottle of the house white wine alongside my meal, but there is an extensive wine list to choose from if you are more educated than I.

Any restaurant in Florence is expensive and 4 Leoni is not a budget option. However, I felt that for the price we paid, the food was far superior to any restaurant on the main tourist drag, and the secluded location and attentive staff means that should I return to Florence (highly likely - I loved it!), I will spend my first evening in this restaurant.

Find out more here: www.4leoni.com

Monday, 15 July 2013

EAT: Janetira, Soho, London

Janetira Dining Room, Soho, London

Location: London, England
No of Tables: Circa 10
Cuisine: Thai
Price: Dishes from £4.50
Date Visited: July 2013



After a failed attempt to get into Flat Iron (the epitome of mainstream marketed as boutique - not that this takes anything away from the great steaks) my friend and I took a winding tour around the streets of Soho. I am not at all good when I'm hungry, so necessity dictated that we duck into this little Thai restaurant on Brewer Street. I am so glad that we did.



The restaurant is tiny, holding a maximum of 25 people. However, this meant that it felt intimate and homegrown. The menu was basic, with the usual Thai fare: gyoza, spring rolls, pad thai, a range of curries. We went for vegetable gyozas and steam pork rolls, followed by a jungle curry and a green chicken curry. The food took a little while to come out to us, but I take this as a sign that the food is fresh, and we were in no rush. When it did come out, the gyozas and dipping sauce matched those that became my staple diet whilst travelling in Thailand. The curries, made without coconut milk, were still of a substantial consistency and were packed full of fresh vegetables. On top of this, the heat did not pander to the English taste; the curries were seriously hot! I personally love this anyway, but our waitress did warn us ahead of ordering, so we only had ourselves to blame. The staff kept our water glasses topped up to combat the fiery treatment that our mouths were receiving.



If you're after something a little stronger than water, however, the restaurant offers a limited selection of cocktails for £5 each, and a similarly limited selection of wine, ranging from £3.50 to £6.00 per glass. A reasonable price for central London.



So all in all, a great little find and the perfect option for a cheap but tasty meal in Soho. I'll be returning; provided that I can find it again!

Find out more and book a table here: www.janetira.co.uk

Sunday, 14 July 2013

STAY: Eden Rock Resort Firenze

Pool and Exterior, Eden Rock Resort Firenze


Name: Eden Rock Resort Firenze
Location: Florence, Italy
No of Rooms: 12 suites
Board Basis: Bed and Breakfast
Price: Starts at £475 for a five night stay
Date Visited: June 2012

The setting of this boutique apart-hotel is what elevates it above and beyond the ordinary. Eden Rock feels completely hidden in the Tusacn hills, with even its natural stone exterior helping it blend into its surroundings; yet the resort sits only a few kilometres outside of the centre of Florence. If you hop on the bus just down the road from the hotel (the manager Daniele will always offer to drive you to the bus stop), you will be in the centre of town in just under 10 minutes.

It was this 'best of both worlds' atmosphere that made us fall in love with Eden Rock. However, the plus points don't end there. We stayed in the most junior of the suits, the Fiesole, but even this was perfectly appointed, with a large lounge, a small kitchenette which featured an electric division (just in case you did want to hide away the luxury coffee machine),  a king sized bed in a separate bedroom and a stylish, minimal bathroom. We had views across the valley from our room. I can only begin to imagine the luxury of the most expensive suite, which is set across two floors with floor to ceiling windows and panoramic views of the city of Florence itself.

The proximity to the city means that you can easily find your way into town to sample the best of Italian cuisine (see my recommendation here, but if you did want to spend a lazy evening in the piece and quiet of the hotel, the evening menu offered on the terrace included swordfish with fennel, veal escalope with fresh tomatoes, beautiful patisserie desserts, and complimentary prosecco to help it all go down.

In short, Eden Rock provides an oasis of calm without compromising the excitement of a city break. For the level of service, luxurious suites, and unbeatable location, the price point makes it a bargain as well.

Find out more and book online here: www.edenrockresort.it